Sustainability in performance apparel: meeting the demands of an eco-conscious marketplace

Introduction

Abstract

The performance apparel industry has often been singled out for the damage its operations cause to the environment, and for the poor working conditions in some of the factories it uses. However, many of the leading brand companies and their suppliers have responded positively to such criticism in a bid to satisfy the demands of an increasingly eco-conscious marketplace. Some firms have gone even further and have shown a genuine commitment to protecting the planet by reducing their carbon footprint and pursuing socially responsible policies in every aspect of their businesses.

Many companies have sought to minimise the impact of their operations on the environment by using recycled materials and offering recyclable products. Some are trying out new materials, processes and technologies which hold the promise of reducing pollution, increasing energy efficiency and minimising waste. A growing number are incorporating less conventional eco-friendly fibres such as bamboo and organic cotton - as well as materials made from biopolymers rather than polymers derived from petrochemicals. Greater attention is being paid to the safety of dyestuffs used in coloration, while emerging technologies such as nanotechnology and plasma technology are providing opportunities for the industry to use more sustainable methods of manufacture.

Consumers are playing their part in reducing the carbon footprint of performance apparel by buying increasing quantities organic clothing, using more eco-friendly clothing care methods, and recycling unwanted garments. Governments, too, are playing an active role in steering the performance apparel industry away from unsustainable practices, while environmental groups and lobbyists are working to ensure that such practices are highly publicised and condemned.

Companies are acknowledging that sustainability has become a necessity rather than an option, given the threat of climate change. Also, they are recognising that they can gain a competitive edge by showing that they are committed to environmentally and socially responsible practices. However, a major challenge is to ensure that such commitment is echoed throughout the industry' s long and highly complex supply chains. Good progress has been made in cleaning up the industry, and the future is bright for those companies which put sustainability high on their agendas. But greater efforts are needed to increase awareness among consumers about the green credentials of the products they buy. Better and more comprehensive labelling could play a greater role in providing such information.

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

SUMMARY

INTRODUCTION

• Outlook

CHALLENGES TO SUSTAINABILITY IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL INDUSTRY ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF FIBRE PRODUCTION AND TEXTILE PROCESSING BY FIBRE TYPE

• Cotton
• Wool
• Synthetic fibres
• Cellulosic fibres

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF CHEMICAL USAGE IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL INDUSTRY

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF WATER AND ENERGY USAGE IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL INDUSTRY

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF WATER AND ENERGY USAGE IN THE TRANSPORTATION AND RETAILING OF PERFORMANCE APPAREL

• Transportation
• Retailing

WATER AND ENERGY USE IN CLOTHING CARE

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF WASTE GENERATION

• Pre-consumer waste
• Post-consumer waste

WORKING CONDITIONS AND SUSTAINABILITY IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL INDUSTRY

KEY DRIVERS OF SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES

• Change in consumer attitudes towards the environment
• Government legislation and its effect on the textile industry' s environmental policies
• Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC)
• Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)
• Campaigns by non-governmental organisations (NGOs)

WAYS OF ACHIEVING SUSTAINABILITY IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL INDUSTRY

FIBRES AND FABRICS WITH ECO-FRIENDLY PROPERTIES

• Bamboo
• Biophyl
• Castor oil seeds
• Cocona
• Hemp
• Ingeo
• Lenpur
• Lyocell
• Milkofil
• Organic cotton
• Nettle
• Recycled polyester
• S.Cafe
• Soya silk

DYES WITH ECO-FRIENDLY PROPERTIES

• Low impact dyes
• Fibre-reactive dyes
• Natural dyes

ECO-FRIENDLY FABRIC TREATMENTS

• Elimination of potentially hazardous substances

SUSTAINABLE CLOTHING CARE

RECYCLING OF PERFORMANCE APPAREL

ETHICAL SOCIAL STANDARDS

• Ethical Trading Initiative
• Clean Clothes Campaign
• Play Fair

CERTIFICATION AND LABELLING OF SUSTAINABLE PERFORMANCE APPAREL

• Oko-Tex
• Bluesign
• Global Organic Textile Standard

SUSTAINABILITY PROGRAMMES MAINTAINED BY KEY PERFORMANCE APPAREL

SUPPLIERS: ADIDAS, COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR, NIKE, PATAGONIA AND WALMART

• Adidas
• Guidelines and training programmes for suppliers
• Awards
• Columbia Sportswear
• Nike
• Patagonia
• Wal-Mart

EXAMPLES OF SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND TECHNOLOGIES FROM ASICS, COLOREP, DOW CORNING AND DEVAN CHEMICALS, NILIT, OPTIMER BRANDS, CORNELL UNIVERSITY, HENRI LLOYD, SWANY AMERICA, TEIJIN FIBERS AND UNIFI

• Asics: eco-friendly running apparel
• Colorep: AirDye
• Dow Corning and Devan Chemicals: eco-friendly textile fabric treatment
• Nilit: eco-friendly nylon yarn
• Optimer Brands: eco-friendly yarn
• Cornell University: recycled cotton fibres
• Henri Lloyd: recycled jacket
• Swany America: recyclable ski glove
• Teijin Fibers: Eco Circle polyester recycling programme
• Unifi: recycled fibres and yarns

List of tables

• Table 1: Environmental and social impacts across the life cycle of performance apparel
• Table 2: Environmental analysis of textile manufacturing
• Table 3: Chemicals used in fabric production
• Table 4: Differences between conventional cotton and organic cotton

List of figures

• Figure 1: Energy profile of a T-shirt

Sustainability in performance apparel: meeting the demands of an eco-conscious marketplace published by Textiles Intelligence in February 1, 2010. This report consists of 43 Pages and the price starts from US $ 910.

Press Release

Performance apparel companies meet eco-conscious demands to gain competitive edge